SERVES 6

Kway teow are delicate flat rice noodles sold fresh in Chinatowns, often in folded sheets to be cut at home. If you can't find them, use Chinese rice vermicelli; they're not the same, but they're still good. For unfamiliar ingredients, visit your local Asian market.

6 cups chicken stock
1⁄2 lb. pork tenderloin
1 tbsp. vegetable oil
1 fish cake, about 1⁄2 lb., thinly sliced
1⁄2 lb. large shrimp, peeled, deveined, and split
   lengthwise
1⁄4 lb. fresh kway teow rice noodles, precut or in sheets
   (or 1⁄4 lb. dried Chinese rice vermicelli)
1⁄4 lb. fresh or dried flat Chinese egg noodles, 1⁄8" wide
2 scallions, trimmed and finely chopped
2 tbsp. finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves
Salt

1. Bring stock to a simmer in a large saucepan over medium-low heat. Add pork and simmer 20 minutes. Remove pork and set aside. Keep stock hot.

2. Heat oil in a wok or medium skillet over medium heat and fry fish cake slices until lightly browned and crisp. Drain on paper towels; set aside.

3. Add shrimp to stock; cook over very low heat for 1 minute. Transfer shrimp to serving bowl. Slice pork thinly and add to serving bowl. If using kway teow in sheets, cut into 1⁄4" strips. (If using dried vermicelli, soften in boiling water for 1 minute, then drain.)

4. Bring 6 cups water to a boil in a wok or medium saucepan over high heat. Add egg noodles and cook until tender (about 2 minutes if fresh, 3 minutes if dried) using chopsticks or a fork to gently pull them apart. Drain; add to serving bowl. Add rice noodles, scallions, and cilantro, pour in stock, and stir gently. Season to taste with salt and serve garnished with fish cake slices.