(Risotto all'Amarone)

SERVES 4

Although carnaroli and the better-known arborio rice are often used to make risotto, Lina Pernigo, chef at La Foresteria Serègo Alighieri, who gave us this recipe, prefers to use the variety called vialone nano. Introduced to the Verona area in 1945, vialone nano is now grown in 90 percent of the region's rice paddies. 

3/4 cup amarone
5 cups beef stock
4 tbsp. beef marrow (from 2–3 marrowbones)
4 tbsp. butter
1 medium yellow onion, peeled and chopped
1 1/2 cups vialone nano or other Italian risotto rice
3 oz. grana padano or parmigiano-reggiano, grated
Salt
Leaves from 3 sprigs parsley, finely chopped

1. Bring wine and stock to a simmer in two separate pots, then keep both warm over low heat.

2. Put marrow, 2 tbsp. of the butter, and onions into a heavy medium pot over medium heat and cook, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon, until onions are soft, 8–10 minutes. Add rice and cook, stirring to coat with the butter and fat, for 2 minutes. Add wine and cook, stirring constantly, until wine is almost completely absorbed, about 30 seconds. Add a ladleful of stock at a time, stirring constantly; wait until almost all of the stock has been absorbed before adding more. Continue cooking and adding stock (you may have some stock left over) until rice is tender but firm to the bite, about 25 minutes.

3.Remove pot from heat and vigorously stir in remaining butter, the cheese. Season to taste with salt. Divide evenly between 4 plates and garnish with parsley.